In brief
- One active ingredient at a time is enough. Stacking them causes irritation more often than it adds effect.
- Almost every active ingredient needs four to twelve weeks. What you see after three days is mainly moisture.
- The concentration on the packaging only tells you something together with the rest of the formula.
- If something isn't working, it's more often down to the order or to how often you use it than to the product itself.
Written by Nilay, owner and beauty therapist at Moons BeautyUpdated on
Six names you come across everywhere.
We work with these active ingredients ourselves, and at home you come across them most often. Under each one you can read what it does and when you would choose it.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid attracts water and holds on to it in the upper layers of your skin. Your skin feels fuller and more supple straight away. Do apply it to slightly damp skin and put a cream over it. Otherwise, in dry air, it actually draws moisture out of your skin.
Niacinamide
A form of vitamin B3. You often find it in products for visible pores, redness and skin that quickly gets shiny. Most skin types tolerate it well, including sensitive skin. That is why it is one of the safest active ingredients to start with.
Vitamin C
An antioxidant that helps protect your skin against outside influences and slows down the production of pigment. Use it in the morning, under your sun protection. Vitamin C is sensitive to light and air, so that dark packaging really does serve a purpose.
Retinol
A form of vitamin A that speeds up cell renewal. You use it for fine lines and an uneven texture. Start with a low strength, twice a week and always in the evening. If your skin flakes or stings, use it less often.
Acids (AHA and BHA)
AHA, such as glycolic acid and mandelic acid, works on the surface and loosens dead skin cells. BHA, such as salicylic acid, gets into the pore itself and so suits clogged pores better. In the salon we use them at a higher strength than is possible at home, in a chemical peel.
Ceramides
The building blocks of your skin barrier, the layer that keeps moisture in and irritants out. It doesn't sound very spectacular, yet they make the difference between skin that tolerates everything and skin that reacts to everything. With overstimulated skin we often add ceramides first.
What goes together and what is better kept apart.
You don't need a complicated plan. The table shows what works well together in practice and what more often causes irritation.
| Topic | Combine? | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Hyaluronic acid with everything | Fine | It complements without irritating, so it fits with every other step. |
| Niacinamide with almost everything | Fine | It is well tolerated. With very sensitive skin, it is sometimes better to go easy when you use it together with acids. |
| Vitamin C with retinol | Not at the same time | Use vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening. Together they cause irritation more often than effect. |
| Retinol with acids | Not on the same evening | They both speed up renewal. Together you go too far and damage your skin barrier. |
| Acids on freshly treated skin | Wait a little | After a peel or microneedling, leave acids and retinol alone for a few days. We tell you that in the salon. |
The simplest rule almost always works: one active ingredient at a time. If in doubt, it is better to leave something out than to add something.
When you can expect something.
This is where most people drop out. They stop after two weeks because nothing is happening, while at that point nothing could happen yet.
Day 1 to 3
Moisture and smoothness
Your skin feels softer and looks fuller. That is moisture. Pleasant, although it doesn't yet say whether the product does what you bought it for.
Week 4
One skin cycle
Your skin has renewed itself once while you were using the product. Now you see the first real change in texture and in how your skin feels.
Week 8 to 12
What it is all about
In these weeks pigment gets lighter and your skin looks more even. Take a photo at the start, because you get used to your own face.
If you stop
Then it slips back
That happens gradually. Active ingredients maintain a result for as long as you use them.
Why the same name works differently in the salon.
On a fifteen-euro jar you see the same names as in a treatment at our salon. The difference lies in the concentration, the acidity and how deep it gets. What you put on at home has to get through your outer skin layer. The product is designed for that too, because it has to be safe without anyone looking over your shoulder.
In the salon we can go higher and work in a more targeted way, because we keep an eye on the effect and stop at the right moment. With microneedling we even bring active ingredients in through tiny channels. That way they end up in places a serum doesn't reach.
What you do at home is still what matters most. Your daily routine counts for more than the few hours a year you spend lying on our treatment bed. The salon speeds things up, and your routine holds on to the result.
Frequently asked questions about active ingredients on the label
Which active ingredient should I choose if I'm just starting?
Start with niacinamide or hyaluronic acid. Both are well tolerated, and both do something noticeable without irritating your skin. Retinol and acids are the next step, once you have your basics in place.
Can I use several serums at the same time?
You can, although it is rarely necessary. One active ingredient at a time is enough. If you want two, use them at different times of the day.
How long does it take before I see anything?
Allow four to twelve weeks, depending on what you are tackling. You notice moisture and smoothness within a few days. Pigment and texture need several skin cycles.
My skin stings from a new product. Keep going or stop?
Use it less often and see what happens. If it keeps stinging, burning or flaking, stop using it. Stinging is a sign that your skin finds it too much.
Is a higher concentration better?
Not automatically. The formula around it and how often you use it matter just as much. A lower concentration that you tolerate every day does more than a high one that irritates your skin.
Can you go through my products with me?
Yes. Bring them to your first skin appointment for €69.00, or take a photo of them. Then you will hear from us what you can keep and what you are better off leaving on the shelf.
From reading to doing
