In brief
- Pigmentation forms when your skin makes too much pigment in one spot. Usually that comes from sun, hormones or an inflammation that has healed.
- Which approach works depends on the type of spot. That's why we always start with a skin analysis for €69.00.
- With vitamin C, mild acids and microneedling, spots become lighter and your complexion more even. Usually this means a course of four to six sessions.
- Daily sun protection is half the result. If you leave it out, the pigment comes back.
Written by Nilay, owner and beauty therapist at Moons BeautyUpdated on
What is pigmentation exactly?
Your skin makes pigment (melanin) to protect itself from UV radiation. If that happens too eagerly in one spot, a darker spot is left behind that doesn't fade by itself. Such a spot is called a pigment spot, or by the technical term hyperpigmentation.
They're usually where you catch the most sun: on your cheeks and cheekbones, your forehead, your upper lip, the bridge of your nose, your hands and your décolletage. You see them most clearly in daylight, and after the summer often more sharply than in February.
Pigment sits at different depths, and that determines what you can expect. Superficial pigment in the top layers of skin often responds quickly. Deeper pigment takes more time and patience, and sometimes a different approach. That's why we only say something about the result once we've seen your skin.
Which type of pigment do you have?
These four types are the most common. They look different, and they also each respond differently to a treatment.
Sun damage and age spots
Sharply defined spots, from light brown to dark brown, on cheeks, hands and décolletage. The cause is years of sun, even though they're called age spots. This type usually responds best, and often fastest too.
Hormonal pigment (melasma)
Larger patches with a blurred edge, on cheeks, forehead and upper lip, often on both sides at once. It often starts during a pregnancy or when taking the pill. Melasma responds to both sun and heat, so we take it gently. It also comes back more easily.
Spots after a pimple or small wound
A dark spot where a blemish used to be. That spot is pigment and so not a scar. Your skin made it in reaction to the inflammation. Usually it fades by itself, only slowly. With a treatment it goes faster.
Freckles
Small, hereditary spots that are evenly spread and get darker in summer. Freckles are part of your skin, so we don't remove them. We do make sure the rest of your complexion stays even and well cared for.
Where does pigment come from?
Usually two or three causes are at play at once. Which ones they are also determines where we start.
Sun, even without sunbathing
This is by far the biggest cause. UV radiation is there on cloudy days too, in winter and behind glass, so also in the car or by the window at the office. What you see now was often built up years ago. What a summer does to your skin, we describe in skin after the summer.
Hormones
A pregnancy, the pill or a hormonal change can make the pigment cells more sensitive. Those spots are often symmetrical on the cheeks and upper lip, and they respond more strongly to sun and heat.
Inflammation and irritation
Any inflammation can leave pigment behind, whether it's a spot, a small wound, an insect bite or ingrown hairs. Squeezing or scratching increases that chance, because the inflammation then goes deeper.
Going in too hard
Firm scrubs, aggressive products or a treatment that is too strong irritate your skin, and pigment cells respond precisely to irritation. With pigment, gentle and patient almost always works better than hard and fast.
Treatments for pigmentation at Moons
Usually we combine two things. We slow down the production of new pigment and help your skin let go of the pigment that is already there. Which combination suits you, we decide together in the skin analysis.
Vitamin C treatment
€85.00The calmest start. Vitamin C slows the production of new pigment and gives your skin more glow straight away. Your skin doesn't need to recover afterwards, so it also fits just before a special day.
60 minutes4 to 6 timesViewMandelic acid 30%
€89.00Mandelic acid has larger molecules than glycolic acid and so penetrates more slowly and evenly. That's why we often choose it for pigmentation on sensitive skin or skin of colour.
50 minutes4 to 6 timesViewGlow peel 23%
€79.00Fruit acids speed up cell renewal, so cells with pigment come loose faster. This suits you well if your skin is already a little used to it and the spots are superficial.
50 minutes4 to 6 timesViewBrightning
€89.00Microneedling with a brightening cocktail of vitamin C and plant extracts. That way the active ingredients end up where the pigment is.
50 minutes3 to 6 timesViewNiacinamide+
€89.00Niacinamide slows the transfer of pigment to the top skin cells and calms at the same time. That's useful if, besides spots, you also struggle with redness or enlarged pores.
50 minutes3 to 6 timesView
All prices are in the price list. We don't offer laser treatments or bleaching agents such as hydroquinone. Those belong with a doctor or clinic.
Which treatment suits your pigmentation?
Each treatment has its own strength and makes different demands on your schedule. In the analysis we look together at which one suits your skin and your schedule best.
| Topic | Works mainly on | With sensitive skin | Afterwards | Usual course |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C treatment | Dull complexion and light spots | Usually fine | Fresher straight away, no downtime | 4 to 6 times, every 2 to 4 weeks |
| Mandelic acid 30% | Superficial pigment, also on skin of colour | Yes, this is the gentlest acid choice | Sometimes a few days of light flaking | 4 to 6 times, every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Glow peel 23% | Sun damage and an uneven complexion | After discussing it, we build up gently | May peel lightly for a few days | 4 to 6 times, every 2 to 4 weeks |
| Brightning (microneedling) | More stubborn pigment and sun damage | After discussing it, not with active irritation | One to two days of redness, as after a sunny day | 3 to 6 times, every 4 weeks |
| Niacinamide+ (microneedling) | Spots after pimples, with redness | Yes, it has a calming effect | One to two days of redness | 3 to 6 times, every 4 weeks |
With melasma we deliberately choose the gentle route, and we rarely start with a strong peel.
Pigmentation on medium or darker skin
The more pigment your skin makes naturally, the more strongly it reacts to irritation. A peel that is too strong or microneedling that is too firm can then cause exactly what you wanted to solve: a new dark spot.
That's why with medium or darker skin we work in smaller steps. We prefer to start with mandelic acid or vitamin C, see how your skin reacts and only then build up. Your skin prefers a course that takes six weeks longer to a single treatment that costs you months.
We don't do laser or IPL. On skin of colour those treatments require special equipment and experience, and for that we refer you to a clinic or dermatologist.
What can you expect and when?
Pigment fades slowly, over a period of months. This is the pattern we see most often in the salon.
Straight after the first time
Fresher, the spot is still there
Your skin looks more even and glows more, mainly because the dead skin cells are gone. The spot itself is still there. After a peel or microneedling a spot can even look a little darker for the first few days before it fades. That's part of the process.
After 4 to 6 weeks
The first visible change
After two or three treatments most people see the edges fade and the complexion looks more even. Take a photo in daylight at the start. After all, a gradual improvement is hard to see in the mirror.
After 3 to 4 months
The result of the course
The course is finished and we put your starting photo next to it. Superficial pigment is then often clearly lighter. Deep or hormonal pigment has usually improved, although it's rarely gone completely.
After that
Keeping what you've built up
For maintenance you come back every six to eight weeks, or only in autumn. In addition you apply sun protection every day, otherwise your skin simply builds the pigment up again.
When is the best time to start?
Autumn and winter are the best period. The sun is lower and you're outside less. Your skin also hasn't just been irritated by a holiday. A course you start in October is finished in time for spring.
In summer it's possible too. Then we choose milder treatments and ask you to be extra careful with your sun protection. If you've just come back from a sun holiday or the sunbed, we wait about two weeks. Your skin is then still in build-up mode, and we don't want to work on that.
What you do at home decides half of it
What a treatment achieves, you hold on to at home. You get a routine from us that suits your skin, with as few products as possible.
Morning
- Wash your face with a mild cleanser, without your skin squeaking afterwards
- Apply a serum with vitamin C to dry skin
- Then apply your day cream
- Finish with sun protection, SPF 30 to 50, every day of the year
Evening
- Double cleanse if you wear make-up or sun protection
- Use your skincare for pigmentation, for example with niacinamide
- Work in a night cream that suits your skin type
- Use stronger products such as retinol only after consulting us, and not in the week around a peel
If your pigment is mainly on your cheeks and cheekbones, choose a tinted sun protection with iron oxide. It also blocks visible light, and that is exactly what hormonal pigment reacts to.
What does it cost to treat pigmentation?
You pay per treatment, so you're not tied to anything. The last column shows roughly what a whole course costs. On top of that comes the skin analysis for €69.00, because that's where you start.
| Treatment | Per session | Usual course | Full course (estimate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C treatment | €85.00 | 4 to 6 sessions | €340.00 to €510.00 |
| Mandelic acid 30% | €89.00 | 4 to 6 sessions | €356.00 to €534.00 |
| Glow peel 23% | €79.00 | 4 to 6 sessions | €316.00 to €474.00 |
| Brightning | €89.00 | 3 to 6 sessions | €267.00 to €534.00 |
| Niacinamide+ | €89.00 | 3 to 6 sessions | €267.00 to €534.00 |
These amounts are a guide. How often you need to come depends on your skin. Your health insurance doesn't cover cosmetic treatments. All current prices are on the prices page.
Good to know about pigmentation
Ordinary daylight counts too
You don't have to lie in the sun to build up pigment. The sun through the car window counts too. That's why pigment often appears on the left cheek in people who drive a lot, and sometimes only shows up years later.
Mild acids work better than a scrub
Scrubbing irritates your skin, and irritation is exactly what makes pigment cells work harder. With pigment you get further with mild acids and patience.
Lemon juice can actually cause new spots
Lemon juice on your skin, together with sun, can cause a strong reaction, and that sometimes leaves new spots behind. So leave it in the kitchen, even if a video online recommends it.
Even a faded spot stays sensitive
The pigment cells stay sensitive to the same triggers. If you don't protect your skin, the pigment comes back. With hormonal pigment that often happens after just one summer.
Beauty therapist, skin therapist or dermatologist?
Those names sound alike. It's good to know the difference before you book anywhere.
A beauty therapist works cosmetically on the condition and appearance of your skin, with cleansing, skincare, peels and microneedling. That is our profession. Cosmetic treatments are not covered by insurance.
A skin therapist has paramedical training and more often works on referral, for example for scars or severe acne. Some of those treatments are occasionally covered by supplementary insurance.
A dermatologist is a doctor. They make the diagnosis and treat medically, for example if a spot looks suspicious or if medication is needed. For that you need a referral from your GP.
In practice those three complement each other well. If you're unsure whether we're the right place for your spot, send a photo along via the skin quiz or WhatsApp us. If it doesn't belong with us, we simply say so.
When to see your GP first?
Have your GP assess a spot first if it changes in shape, colour or size, if the edge is irregular or blurred, or if it itches, flakes or bleeds. The same applies if a new dark spot suddenly appears that you can't explain. It costs you one appointment, and we always stick to that boundary. If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, we stick to mild, nourishing treatments and hold off on peels and microneedling. Hormonal pigment often calms down by itself after that period.
Frequently asked questions about pigmentation
Can you have pigmentation removed in Enschede?
At Moons we make pigmentation spots lighter and your complexion more even, with vitamin C, mild acids and microneedling. We can't promise that they disappear completely. How much goes depends on the type of spot and how deep the pigment sits. Superficial sun spots often respond well, while hormonal pigment is more stubborn. For a laser treatment we refer you to a clinic.
What is the best treatment for pigmentation?
That depends on your skin. With superficial pigment, a course of vitamin C or a mild fruit acid peel often works fastest. If the pigment sits deeper, microneedling with a brightening cocktail brings the active ingredients to the right place. With sensitive skin or skin of colour we almost always choose mandelic acid. In the skin analysis we decide together which approach suits you.
How many treatments do I need?
Usually four to six, with two to four weeks in between. Maintenance follows after that. With hormonal pigment we carry on for longer, in smaller steps. After the third time we know fairly well how your skin responds, and then we look together at whether the plan needs to change.
When will I see results?
Your skin looks fresher straight away, mainly because it's clean and smooth. You see the spots really fading after four to six weeks. You see the result of a whole course after three to four months. Take a photo in daylight at the start, because in the mirror you hardly notice a gradual improvement.
Can I have a pigmentation treatment in summer?
That's possible, although autumn and winter are a better time. In summer we choose milder treatments and ask you to be strict about sun protection. If you've just come back from a sun holiday or the sunbed, we first wait about two weeks.
Does pigmentation come back?
If you change nothing, yes. The pigment cells stay sensitive to UV radiation, heat and inflammation. You hold on to the result well with daily sun protection and brightening skincare, and an occasional maintenance treatment. Hormonal pigment demands the most of you.
Does a peel help against pigmentation?
Yes. A fruit acid peel speeds up cell renewal, so cells with pigment come loose faster. The strength does have to be right. A peel that is too strong backfires with pigment, because irritation can trigger new pigment. That's why we start mild and build up to what your skin can handle.
Is microneedling good for pigment?
Microneedling itself mainly improves the texture of your skin and scars. Against pigment it works because we bring in a brightening cocktail with it. That way it goes deeper than a serum you use at home. With skin of colour we work more carefully, because it reacts more strongly to irritation.
Can I be treated if I'm pregnant or breastfeeding?
Yes, with mild, nourishing treatments. We don't do peels and microneedling in that period. Pigment that appears during a pregnancy often calms down by itself after the birth, so waiting is often the wisest choice. What we can do during that time is covered in skincare during your pregnancy.
What does a treatment for pigmentation cost at Moons Beauty?
The Vitamin C treatment costs €85.00, a peel with mandelic acid €89.00 and microneedling with a brightening cocktail €89.00. The skin analysis you start with costs €69.00. You pay per session, so you don't commit to a course.
Treatments for pigmentation
