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In brief
- Medium or darker skin makes more pigment. That protects against the sun, and it also means that irritation more quickly leaves a dark mark that stays for months.
- That's why we work in smaller steps. With a peel we start with mandelic acid, with microneedling we build up more gently.
- Dark spots after pimples are discolouration. They fade by themselves, although that takes longer on darker skin.
- We don't do laser or IPL. On skin of colour those treatments require special equipment and experience, and for that we refer you to a clinic or dermatologist.
- Sun protection every day helps, on darker skin too. UV light makes spots darker.
Written by Nilay, owner and beauty therapist at Moons BeautyUpdated on
Why does darker skin react differently?
The darker your skin, the more pigment it makes naturally. That pigment is called melanin and protects you from the sun. As a result, darker skin often ages a little more slowly.
The flip side is that the pigment cells react quickly. Any trigger, such as an inflammation, a graze or a treatment that is too strong, can make them produce extra pigment. A dark mark is then left behind. That is called hyperpigmentation, and on darker skin it often takes months for such a mark to fade.
A peel that is too strong or microneedling that is too firm can then cause exactly what you wanted to solve: a new dark spot. So treatment is certainly possible, as long as we take it gently.
What it looks like on darker skin.
On medium or darker skin, skin concerns look different from how they appear in most examples.
Irritation
Redness is hard to see. Irritation is more likely to show as a darker, purple-brown or greyish tinge. Sometimes you only feel it: your skin is warm, tight or burning.
Dryness
Your skin turns greyish or ashy rather than red, especially on your cheeks and around your mouth. Flakes actually stand out more, because they contrast lighter.
Dull skin
On darker skin, dullness often looks ashen grey. It is about the condition of your skin, and you can improve that in the salon and at home. See dull skin.
Spots after pimples
After a pimple, a flat, brown mark is often left behind. That is discolouration and it fades by itself, although it takes longer on darker skin.
Marks after hair removal
An ingrown hair or irritated skin can leave a dark mark. From day three or four after waxing, scrub lightly twice a week, and hairs grow out more easily.
Which treatment suits darker skin?
| Topic | How we do it | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Mandelic acid peel | Our first choice for a peel. Mandelic acid penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation | Four to six times for a visible difference |
| Peels with glycolic acid | Only later, once your skin tolerates mandelic acid well | Glycolic acid works faster and deeper, and suits skin that can handle it |
| Vitamin C treatment | A brightening treatment for a dull or uneven complexion | Your skin doesn't need to recover from it |
| Microneedling | In smaller steps, with a gentler build-up | For pigmentation and acne scars, often after a few peels |
| Hydra treatment | For skin that lacks moisture and looks grey | Calm and without irritation |
| Laser and IPL | We don't do these | On skin of colour those treatments require special equipment and experience. For that we refer you to a clinic or dermatologist |
If you're unsure whether something suits your skin, send a photo along beforehand via the skin quiz.
Dark spots after pimples.
After a pimple, your skin makes extra pigment in that area, in response to the inflammation. What is left behind is a flat, brown mark. The surface feels smooth, and that is the difference from a scar: a scar is a small dent or a small bump.
Such a mark fades by itself, although it takes months and often longer on darker skin. You help it along with sun protection every day and brightening skincare. In the salon, mandelic acid and vitamin C make the spots lighter more quickly.
The most important thing is to prevent new spots. Don't squeeze pimples, because a bigger inflammation leaves a darker mark. How to calm unsettled skin is explained under blemish-prone skin.
What we do differently with darker skin.
Smaller steps
We start more gently, see how your skin reacts and only then build up. We prefer a course that takes six weeks longer over a single treatment that costs you months.
Mandelic acid first
With a peel we choose mandelic acid over glycolic acid, even if your skin isn't otherwise sensitive.
Rest between two treatments
We never schedule microneedling and a peel in the same week.
Moisture first with dryness
We don't scrub or peel parched skin of colour, even if the flakes bother you. First your skin gets its moisture and nourishment back.
Checking after every treatment
After a peel or microneedling a spot can look a little darker for the first few days before it fades. That's part of the process. At every appointment we look at how your skin reacted before we take a step further.
What you do at home to prevent new spots.
| Topic | What you do | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Sun protection | Every morning, even when it's cloudy | UV light makes spots darker and keeps discolouration in place for longer |
| Cleanse gently | Twice a day, without scrubbing | Rubbing and scrubbing are triggers too |
| Vitamin C | Every morning, under your sun protection | It helps spots fade. More under vitamin C serum |
| Leave pimples alone | Don't squeeze or pick | A bigger inflammation leaves a darker mark |
| New products | Introduce them one at a time | That way you see which product irritates your skin |
What does a treatment cost?
You pay per session. Because you usually do a series, those amounts are shown too.
| Treatment | Per session | Usual course | Full course (estimate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mandelic acid peel | €89.00 | 4 to 6 sessions | €356.00 to €534.00 |
| Vitamin C treatment | €85.00 | 4 to 6 sessions | €340.00 to €510.00 |
| Microneedling for pigmentation | €89.00 | 3 to 6 sessions | €267.00 to €534.00 |
These are the prices at Moons in Enschede. All prices are on the prices page.
See your GP first for these spots.
If a spot changes shape or colour, grows, or starts to itch or bleed, have your GP look at it first. The same goes for patches that turn lighter than the rest of your skin and for a rash that doesn't go away.
Frequently asked questions about darker skin
Which peel suits darker skin?
Mandelic acid. It penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation, and darker skin reacts to irritation with pigment. At Moons the mandelic acid peel costs €89.00.
Can you have microneedling on darker skin?
That's possible, with a gentle build-up. We work in smaller steps, because a treatment that is too firm can leave a dark mark on darker skin. We never schedule microneedling and a peel in the same week.
Why do I get dark spots after pimples?
Your skin makes extra pigment in response to the inflammation. On darker skin that happens faster and more strongly. What is left behind is a flat, brown mark: discolouration, not a scar.
How long do dark spots last after a pimple?
Usually months, and often longer on darker skin. With sun protection every day and brightening skincare they fade faster.
Do dark spots go away by themselves?
A flat, brown mark after a pimple usually does, although it takes time. Spots from the sun or from hormones more often stay. Superficial pigment responds well to mandelic acid, vitamin C and microneedling; hormonal pigment is more stubborn.
Do you need sun protection with darker skin?
Yes. Your own pigment protects you better against burning, and yet UV light makes spots darker and keeps discolouration in place for longer. If your pigment is mainly on your cheeks, choose a tinted sun protection with iron oxide. It also blocks visible light.
Do you do laser or IPL?
No. On skin of colour those treatments require special equipment and experience. For that we refer you to a clinic or dermatologist.
Can a peel make my skin darker?
A peel that is too strong can cause a new dark spot on darker skin. That's why we start with mandelic acid and build up. After a peel a spot can look a little darker for the first few days before it fades. That's part of the process.
Which facial suits darker skin?
Any facial is possible, with attention to irritation. For spots and an uneven complexion, mandelic acid and the Vitamin C treatment suit well, and for dryness the Hydra treatment.
Why does my skin look grey?
Dryness and dull skin look greyish or ashen on darker skin. Moisture and nourishment help most, with mild exfoliation once your skin is back in balance.
How can you see irritation on darker skin?
By a darker, purple-brown or greyish tinge, and sometimes only by a warm, tight or burning feeling. Redness is harder to see on darker skin.
What helps against an uneven complexion?
Sun protection every day and vitamin C at home. In the salon, mandelic acid, the Vitamin C treatment or microneedling for pigmentation, for €89.00 per session.
How often do you come for a mandelic acid peel?
For a visible difference four to six times, with two to four weeks in between. Each time we look at how your skin reacted before we go on.
Will I get dark marks after waxing?
An ingrown hair or irritated skin can leave a dark mark on darker skin. From day three or four, scrub lightly twice a week and keep your skin supple, and hairs grow out more easily.
Should I have my skin looked at first, to see what it needs?
We recommend that. At the first skin appointment we look at your skin together and treat you straight away, for €69.00. You can also send a photo first via the skin quiz.
What does a treatment cost at Moons?
The mandelic acid peel costs €89.00, the Vitamin C treatment €85.00 and microneedling for pigmentation €89.00. All prices are on the prices page.
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